Temperate Rainforests

*Temperate Rainforest: “any forest that receives more than 50-60 inches of rain per year and has a temperate climate.”

Native fir and cedar forest along the banks of Lookout Creek, H.J. Andrews State Forest, Oregon Cascades. (orgn0660) Photo by Brett Cole/Wild Northwest PhotographyAll Rights Reserved.

Temperate rainforests make up a small portion of the world’s forests, (2-3% of rainforests or 30-40 million hectares); yet harbor more biomass per acre than any other forest type including the tropical rainforest. The estimate biomass is between 500-2,000 metric tons per hectare! This surprises many people whom only picture the tropical rainforest as harboring such immense life. Not only is there an astounding amount of biomass, these temperate rainforests also harbor some of the only remaining old growth in the country or world for that matter. This is considerably important in the face of the devastating old growth logging that has been, and still is, a part of the history and fate of American forests.

Before they were logged, temperate rainforests covered a much larger area globally than can be found currently. In fact, temperate rainforests historically were to be found on every continent except for Africa and Antarctica for obvious climatic reasons. Currently these forests can be found mainly in Western North America, Canada, and South-East Alaska. There are also larger portions in the Southern hemisphere in a strip along Chile’s coastline. Other areas include a piece on the West coast of New Zealand’s South island and small pieces in Tasmania and Norway. The current state of these forests is a state of diminishing sustainability as they become smaller and smaller and thus are prone to becoming ‘edge’ forest with a less highly functioning ecosystem and a subsequent decreased level of biodiversity.

There are three requirements for a temperate rainforest; 1) a mild coastal climate, 2) heavy summer fog, and 3) very generous rainfall, (more than 50 inches per year). There are also six general characteristics of this forest type; 1) the presence of sitka spruce, 2) the presence of nurse logs, 3) the presence of colonnades, (trees standing in a row as a result of starting on nurse logs), 4) trees standing on stilts, (a result of seedlings sprouting on stumps that later decay away leaving a tree standing on the roots), 5) a profusion of lichens and mosses, and 6) bigleaf maples with clubmoss draperies.

Coast Redwoods in early morning fog. Damnation Creek, Del Norte Redwoods Park, California. (cali0116) Photo by Brett Cole

Heavy rainfall, along with the temperate climate, are however, both the main characteristics and requirements for this forest type. In some areas of temperate rainforest such as Olympic National Park in Washington state, USA, there can often be more than 150 inches of rain per year. This type of insanely heavy rainfall is what keeps the temperate rainforest so lush, verdant and green. These forests developed where moisture-rich air masses from the Pacific Ocean rise and become trapped by coastal mountain ranges, at this point moisture condenses and returns to earth as heavy, frequent rainfall. The mild climate of these forests where temperatures rarely go above 80c or below 30c coupled with the heavy rains allows for continuous year round growth. The mild summers bring with them the heavily moisture laden fog which prevents the occurrence of drought and sustains the moisture level of the forest in the drier season. These climatic factors are the allowing force of the temperate rainforests. Because of global warming however, there is a continuing threat to the stability of these weather systems and thus an increased risk to the wellbeing of the temperate rainforests.

Macro view of raindrops clinging to fir needles in the Umpqua National Forest, Oregon. (orgn0500) Photo by Brett Cole

As noted previously, these forests have the largest amount of biomass per hectare of anywhere in the world. Most of this biomass consists of leaf litter, wood, foliate, moss, living plants and soil. There is also a disproportionate amount of biomass present in the tropical rainforest with figures that trail not too far behind the temperate rainforest. There are several interesting differences between these two types of rainforests though.

Temperate rainforests provide habitat for more than 250 species of birds and mammals and also more than 30 species of trees. Although this is not remarkable by global standards, there are several rare and/or endangered species such as the infamous spotted owl that stirred up such a controversy in the Pacific Northwest and eventually throughout the country. These forests are also home to seven species of Pacific salmon. Some of the most dominant mammals would consists of several species of chipmunks and squirrels including the flying squirrel, voles, beavers, snowshoe hares, martens, weasels, black bears, bobcats, mule deer and elk. There are also a huge amount of bird species present in these forests and several different salamander and frog species including a tree frog. Finally there is the well known, (although not always well-loved), banana slug.

The dominant tree species in these forests consist of Sitka Spruce, Western Hemlock, Western Redcedar, Common Douglas Fir, Grand Fir, and Silver, Red, and White Fir. Then there is the Pacific Yew, Western Larch, Incense Cedar, Bigleaf Maple, Red Alder, Pacific Dogwood, Cascara Buckthorne, Pacific Madrone, Western White Pine and the Lodgepole Pine. Redwood trees are also existent in temperate rainforest but are almost in a class by themselves because of their immense size and stature.

Vertical view of very tall Douglas-fir trees in the Umpqua National Forest, Oregon. Nearly 275 feet tall and 500 years old, trees like this are still being cut by the Forest Service. (orgn0503) Photo by Brett Cole

For this reason there is a whole specified redwood zone subtype of temperate rainforest. There are also three other subtypes of temperate rainforest making four total subtypes. The distribution and categorization of these subtypes is based upon temperature and precipitation distribution. Along with these four zones come distinct pattens of dominant tree species. In the subpolar zone the dominant species are Sitka Spruce, and Western and Mountain Hemlock. In the perhumid zone Sitka Spruce is again a dominant species along with Western Redcedar and Western Hemlock. In the seasonal zone, Douglas Fir is added to the aforementioned species in the perhumid zone to complete the characteristics of this seasonal zone. Finally there is the previously mentioned redwood zone which obviously bows to the dominance of the Redwood tree species.

Redwood trees are definitely some of the more amazing trees of the temperate rainforest type. They are the tallest trees on earth. For comparison one can imagine the statue of liberty in New York City, USA, which dwarfs a human and is 300 some feet tall. Well, Redwood trees can be taller than the statue of liberty! Not only are the Redwoods some of the tallest trees, they are also some of the oldest and can live more than 2,000 years although most live between 500-700 years depending on conditions.

Redwoods like most conifers have both a male and female cone and pollination occurs by wind. The seedlings can actually grow in a darkened forest as they are tolerant of shade. Redwoods are one of the only tees that have burls. Burls are wrinkled balls of tissue found in places along the tree’s trunk. Burls can dramatically range in size from a small ball to the size of a table. They consist of dormant tissue that is capable of sprouting new tree growth. In this way Redwoods have a competitive advantage, if one falls over but has an intact root system then the burl can sprout and become another whole tree.

As we already know the temperate rainforests are intimately connected to the hydrologic cycle and the effects of coastal fog and rain. However, there are also hugely important terrestrial and marine ecosystem connections. First of all, most of these forests actually stand in watersheds that empty directly into the ocean. There are also delicate networks of streams, wetlands and estuaries running through them. These waterbodies create habitats for both freshwater and anadromous fish, (such as salmon, whom live out their lives between both fresh and salt water). These waterbodies are also important for other wildlife that depend on aquatic habitats and plants that have specifically adapted to living in, on or near them. Many natural corridors are created by the riparian habitats created by these water networks. The plant and animal communities in, around and below these riparian zones make up biodiversity that can only be found in these forests. Not only this, but a considerable amount of the biological production of the world’s oceans can be found on the edges of the temperate rainforests. Many animals carry marine nutrients back into coastal watersheds which makes them and the forest more productive. Preserving undeveloped watersheds has become and important issue in rainforest conservation as they are so closely linked to the overall health of these forests and provide and often clean watersource for humans also.

There are many natural resources to be found in the temperate rainforest of the world. These all have definite economic value, especially the natural resource of wood. Loggers highly value the wood to be found in these forests and can harvest very valuable timber from them. There are also many plant, animal and fungal resources to be found. Besides this there are numerous as of yet undiscovered resources that may prove to be invaluable to us humans. For example, some species of plants may yield cures for diseases. There is so much that is still not yet researched about these forests and if we were to care for them irresponsibly we may be losing out literally on the chance of a lifetime. What an unforgivable shame that would be.

There are also numerous cultural resources to be found in the temperate rainforests of the world. Their use as recreational resources is well known and people come from around the globe to see such forests as the Redwoods. These forests are a wonderful place to learn, explore, relax and reflect.

Currently the major threats to these forests is from humans, mainly attributable to logging and development. Around 44% of these forests have already been developed and only 16% of what is left is protected. These forests are not prone to many natural disturbances. Fire is rare due to the high moisture content in the tree’s bark, the soil and the air. Redwood forests are the most fire prone and the trees usually still survive an incident. Other disturbances would consist of wind throw and landslides of which neither are severely or permanently damaging. The largest threat to these rainforests is unequivocally human driven.

Big Leaf Maple Photo by Brett Cole

The temperate rainforests are certainly a jewel to be treasured. Aesthetically, biologically, recreationally they are a wonder of nature. People often feel some of the greatest, deepest peace in their lives while in these forests. They deserve our most attentive and nourishing care. If protected and cherished they may just save us someday, they are part of the planet’s lungs after all. Truly the trees of majesty and mystery reside in these spiritually infused, diverse and wise forests. Lets work towards saving them together…..

Works Consulted: www.ecotrust.org/publications/rain-forests-atlas.html Alden, Peter and Dennis Paulson. National Audubon Society Field Guide to the Pacific Northwest. New York: Chanticleer Press, 1998. Kricher, John and Gordon Morrison. California and Pacific Northwest Forests. New York: Houghton Mifflin Co., 1993. Miller, Tyler. Sustaining the Earth. Belmont, C.A.: Wadsworth/Thomson Learning, 2002. Pojar, Jim and Andy MacKinnon. Plants of the Pacific Northwest Coast; Washington, Oregon, British Columbia and Alaska. Vancouver, B.C.: Lone Pine Publishing, 1994. Pynn, Larry. Last Stands; A Journey through North America’s Vanishing Ancient Rainforests. Corvallis, O.R.: Oregon State University Press, 2000. Wright-Frierson. A North American Rain Forest Scrapbook. USA: Walker Publishing Co., 1999.

The Hanauer Heritage Oak

103 feet could save the Hanauer Oak Tree

It is times like these when I am reminded of how actions can speak louder than words. But it is words that I must find to convey the deep meaning and learning that comes from knowing a tree. Not just any old tree. Let me introduce you to The Hanauer Oak Tree of McMinnville.

300 Years of Survival for a native Oregon White Oak

A lone 300 year old native Oregon White Oak stands on the Wright Street side of a small divided-off portion of a corner lot where Fleischauer meets Wright in McMinnville. This tree pre-dates white settlement, circling 17 feet in circumference at the base, 18 1/2 feet in circumference at the breast (4.5 feet above ground level) and has a canopy spread of 67 feet in diameter. It survived the Columbus Day storm intact when many walnut trees in McMinnville were shattered.

To me, this tree vividly embodies at the microcosm everything that is going on at the microcosm of our world today.  I name these things each as I see them: Soul-nurturing beauty existant, an attempt at profit at the expense of Life, and a cultural authenticity that derives itself from a Sacred Marriage with The Land.

This tree, a miracle, stands as witness to over 300 years of Life.  To me, as it embodies Life, so it has entered my consciousness with its majestic presence.  It must not be surrendered unto Destruction without a fight. None of us can make a tree, much less one just like this one.

They say that the roots of a tree almost always extend out as far as the tree limbs above ground. That is 67 feet in diameter and counting. In McMinnville there is a City Ordinance 3380 Section 17.58.030 "Critical Root Zone" which the city has on the books. According to that formula, 103 radial feet around the tree are required to be fenced off and left unmolested in order to protect it. 103 feet could save The Hanauer Oak Tree.

So far, the city has refused to enforce this ordinance in this instance.

We named the oak tree The Hanauer Heritage Oak Tree for Ruby Hanauer, a local jeweler, who stewarded the tree, and owned the house adjacent to it before she died. Several of us neighbors who want to save the tree have formed The Hanauer Heritage Oak Tree Neighborhood and Homes Association.  

Now the lot is owned by Mr. Ray Kulback of RB & R Contractors in McMinnville. He has expressed a wish to build duplexes on top of the root zone of the tree and run two driveways on either side of the trunk of the tree.

We hope he doesn't.

Shenanigans and the Run-Around

The lot itself is only a little over 133 feet deep. What this amounts to, if you consider the critical root zone of the tree, is that the lot is unbuildable. This will entirely kill the tree.

We tried to meet with Mr. Kulback to present seven different proposals that would have saved the tree and *also* restored Mr. Kulback to the financial position he was in before he bought the lot and invested money in permits, drawings and so forth. He would have lost *no* money and in fact, might have made some money he had not thought of before.

But he broke his promise and rather than meet with us and hear all of our proposals, he chose to spitefully drive his Jeep all over the root zone of The Hanauer Heritage Oak Tree, in front of those of us who had come to meet with him. We have tried to reach him by letter and fax to schedule another meeting but have not as of today heard back yet. As of today, (August 25, 2005) he has installed a chemical Porta-Potty on the lot and has installed orange fencing right around the base of the tree, but not 103 radial feet out from the tree.  He has already severely wounded the tree by taking two 14" and one 17" diameter branches off of the tree and cutting into the branch collars.

Mr. Kulback has an arborist's report claiming that there is "tip die-back, hollowing, that the limbs need cabling, and that its overall condition is marginal; it could go either way- live or die. I am an OSU trained Master Gardener. I and another neighbor who has years of experience in horticulture have examined the tree. There is no tip die-back, hollowing or weak branches.  But still, the tree indeed could go either way, depending on how it is treated from now on.

Mr. Kulback is insistent. He claims that he is doing everything possible to save the tree, but he is refusing to protect an area of 103 feet out from the trunk of the tree. The city has not yet taken any action to enforce its own City Ordinance 3380 Section 17.58.030, Critical Root Zone.

Philosophically Speaking

None of us can make a tree, much less one just like this one. And what we cannot make, we do not have the right to destroy. And as we are all connected to each other and to all of our other siblings-of-equal-standing-in-Creation, what Mr. Kulback does, *we do also*!  I will not be dragged into doing a wrong thing, without a fight. I do not know if we can win. Even so, fighting to save the tree and our neighborhood is the *right* thing to do. Fighting agains being complicit in doing the wrong thing, is the right thing to do. It is a good culture and moral value to do the right thing for its own sake - not only when you think you can win.It is a defiant act of resistance and I choose to Resist. It is a hopeful act of Art and I choose Hope. It is an affirmation of that which is Good, and True, and Beautiful in the world, even as it passes from us, and I choose to Witness. Even as the Shadow falls across us all, we still, for the sake of our own Souls, need to Stand Up for the right thing and do the right thing wherever we find it to do, whatever that the right thing is where we find it. We should do it- just because. That is the only reason anyone needs to do anything, anyway. In this way, we refuse to sell our Souls and refuse to have them taken from us. And here is in this time and this place, I have found this right thing to do for its own sake.

Other News and What You Can Do

Please write or fax Mr. Ray Kulback at RB&R Contractors, 745 Adams Street McMinnville, OR 97128

Fax 503-434-5462, and urge him to embrace creativity, heart, Soul, generosity of Spirit, courage, and civic-mindedness to understand the deep concern and love we all have for The Hanauer Heritage Oak Tree, and to internalize it for himself. In that      
loving spirit please invite him to work toward a solution with The Hanauer Heritage Oak Tree Neighborhood and Homes Association that will *truly* save the tree. Please write to the McMinnville News Register, Letters to the Editor, 611 N.E. Third Street, P.O. Box 727, McMinnville, OR 97128. The Phone number there is (503) 472-5114 / (800) 472-1198; Fax (503) 472-9151 and urge the same; share with them what is in your heart to share. 

There have been two articles about the tree published in the
McMinnville News Register linked here:

http://www.newsregister.com/news/results.cfm?story_no=196982

and at

http://www.newsregister.com/news/results.cfm?story_no=197312

The trunk of The Hanauer Heritage Oak Tree

Kathleen O'Brien Blair

The Hanauer Heritage Oak Tree Neighborhood and Homes Association

503-434-9780

The Klamath-Siskiyous, A Truly Unique Region

Bear Basin Butte: Photography by Wendell Wood

Are you aware there is a region right here in Oregon that boasts the largest concentration of National Wild and Scenic Rivers in the entire nation? Did you know this region also possesses more conifer tree species than any other temperate forest zone in the entire world? Not only that, this region contains the largest formation of exposed serpentine in North America! In fact, this geological feature contributes to the regions’ incredible biological diversity.

The Klamath-Siskiyou Bioregion is located in Southwest Oregon and Northwest California. The Klamath-Siskiyou Mountains are recognized by the World Conservation Union as one of only seven Areas of Global Botanical Significance in North America. The region is proposed as a World Heritage Site and as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. A study by the World Wildlife Fund ranks the Klamath-Siskiyou region as one of the three top conifer biomes in the world! At the heart of the region is the Kalmiopsis Wildlands, the largest complex of wilderness and roadless areas remaining between Canada and Mexico.

So what makes the Klamath-Siskiyou region so unique? The age of the Klamath Mountain range contributes greatly to its unique flavor. Unlike any other mountain chain in the northwest, the Klamath Mountains remained intact through the last great ice age providing a seed bank for entire floras.

Then, there is the weather. The east-west direction of the Klamath Mountain chain intercepts weather fronts from both the north and the south. Annual precipitation varies widely from 7 to 78 inches, the area’s winters are tempered by the mild influence of the Pacific Ocean.

The combination of unique weather, unprecedented amounts of exposed serpentine, and geological age provides for a habitat of incredible biological diversity. A 1988 study identified 281 endemic flora species in the region. A one square mile survey within the region identified 17 different conifers, a record seldom rivaled on this planet. In all, 31 conifer species call the Klamath-Siskyous their home. The Klamath-Siskiyou region is the third richest in species type with over 2,300 identified plant species in the region.

It is these amazing attributes and many more that give you an idea of just how special the Klamath-Siskiyou Bioregion really is. The region encompasses the Klamath Mountains of Southwest Oregon and Northwest California.

The Siskiyou Field Institute’s (SFI) mission is to foster more awareness and a better understanding of this region. Like our region, the Siskiyou Field Institute offers a diverse venue of recreational learning opportunities that are based throughout the region during most of the year. Courses vary from a few hours in a single day to multi-day expeditions. A scientist or expert in the relevant field leads every course. The 2005 catalog has included such courses as Bat Watch in the Lava Beds, Klamath River Traditional Ecological Knowledge Rafting Trip, Medicinal Plants of the Siskyous, and Edible/Medicinal Seaweeds of the Northern California/Southern Oregon Coast.

Courses that are coming up this fall include Wild Salmon Weekend at the Oregon Caves Monument Chateau. This 2-day course on October 21-23 features a presentation on Friday night on the Chinook Salmon life cycle. The next two days feature field trips to watch spawning salmon, a visit to the Little Falls of the Illinois River for a very up-close look at leaping salmon as they conquer a difficult passage to their destination, and finally a visit to a Darlingtonia fen to witness the fly-eating cobras lilies of the area.

On November 11 and 12, we offer Fall Fruiters: Mycology in Southwest Oregon I and II. The courses offer a combination of lab and field work with an emphasis on learning how to identify fungi species of the area. The course culminates in the field collection of a variety of fungi in the area.

The Siskiyou Field Institute in conjunction with Southern Oregon University, envisions developing a Klamath-Siskiyou Research Station that will be located in the Cave Junction area. The campus will host field educational opportunities for all levels starting at Kindergarten and ranging up through- graduate level studies.

More and more people are looking for recreational opportunities that are both fun and enriching. An SFI adventure offers an opportunity to gain a deeper understanding of the truly unique assets of the Klamath-Siskiyous – and you do it by joining a scientist rafting, hiking, or spelunking the natural wonders of this amazing region. If you are interested in an SFI adventure, check out our website at www.thesfi.org or call 541.592.3777 for more information.